Lavender has grown on the plateaus of Provence since antiquity. Early appreciated for its perfume it became a favored disinfectant during the Middle Ages before becoming key to the development of the perfume industry in Grasse during the Renaissance. Over time its many properties have been discovered. Housewives place lavender scented packets in the clothes chests and armoires to keep the moths away. Small sachets may be tucked under your pillow to help you sleep, or lavender scented oil may be applied to your temples to soothe a headache. And more recently, cooks have begun experimenting with lavender in cooking. Lavender honey, made by the bees with the nectar gathered exclusively from the lavender flower in mid-summer, has an aroma all its own. When you come to Provence do taste this most special of nectars.

There are multiple lavenders, of which the two most seen in Provence are the true lavande fine, and the hibrid lavandin. The lavande fine grows only above 600 meters altitude and is known for its more delicate perfume, and its calming powers. Lavandin is what is planted at the lower altitudes. It is easier to cultivate and is the plant of choice for soaps and cosmetics. Also, strangely, it is known as a stimulant rather than a calmant. When we visit the Abbaye of Senanque in the Luberon we are in fact visiting the fields of lavandin.

A marvelous resource for all varieties of lavender, recipes and more is Catherine in Sault. She and her husband cultivate over 30 varieties of lavender and give tours of the hills surrounding them during lavender season, from mid-June through September. Her English is quite good too. Closer to us is the Musee des Aromes in Graveson where you can see an old steam distillery in copper, and purchase many lavender products from the true essence to sachets. They explain clearly how the essence of lavender is and has always been distilled, with steam. It takes 100-120 kilograms of lavender flowers and stems to obtain 1 kilogram of lavender oil essence (that is 220-260 lbs to obtain approximately 1 quart). Traditionally lavender was harvested by hand with a scithe, but is now harvested by machine.

The boon of tourism to the lavender growing regions around the plateaus of Mt. Ventoux has been tremendous. The noted French author Jean Giono wrote of the death of these towns back in the late 19th, early 20th Century. A harsh climate, up in the hills, far from the major trade routes and cities. Only those hardy enough to scratch out their near subsistence existence were able to stay, and many chose to leave the heights for the easier life in the more populated valley villages. You would hardly be able to match this description with the lovely renovated villages that dot the path of lavender now. With tourism come jobs, and the possibility of staying in the land of your grandparents -- or returning to it. I've put a number of links on our links' page that will give you an itinerary and addresses for lavender in Provence.

For a time now, as cooks, we've been enjoying the lavender honey of our beekeeper Sophie Berton, drizzled in yogurt, in tarts and clafoutis, and even in savory dishes such as roast chicken. However, there has been many a friend who's mentioned a tantalizing combination of lavender and ice cream... However, I was hesitant to make an ice cream flavored only with lavender. I'm a bit resistant to the pure flower as a flavor, tending to find it a bit "soapy". So, I've come up with a recipe that I find smooth and very aromatic, resting upon the twin flavors of the flower and the honey. I've made it a few times with our guests now, and it is particularly elegant when accompanied by fresh rasberries or blackberries. Perhaps even with peaches?

Lavender Ice Cream
Glaco a la lavando

For 12

Ingredients