The Roman civilization in Provence was highly developed. We still enjoy the Arenas (sisters to the Coliseum in Rome) in the cities of Arles and Nîmes for animal sacrifices and tests between man and beast--the Corrida better known as a Spanish Bull Fight--, the open air theaters of Arles and Orange for concerts, opera and dance. However Roman culture was much more than splendid stone buildings. It encompassed the basis of much or our legal and rational thought: many of our modern day governments reflect structures they put in place, and many words of our language--for those of us who speak a Romance language or English--are rooted in theirs, Latin. My favorite word? EPICURE.

For you see, the Romans also had a highly cultivated sense of taste, and for the wealthy and privileged flavors from throughout the Roman Empire were brought together to create tantalizing and delicate dishes. Today we can read through 3 different texts, the most important of which is by APICIUS to learn more of what the Romans ate, and to sample their recipes, or enjoy a number of good books which adapt the recipes to our times including "A Taste of Ancient Rome" by Ilaria Gozzini Giacosa, published in the United States by the University of Chicago Press. We can also go to eat at a wonderful little restaurant situated right in the ruins of the Ancient city of Glanum located just outside the modern-day city St. Rémy. There, from April 1 through September 30, seven days a week, from 10AM to 7PM (reflecting the hours that the naitonal monument is open to the public) Mireille Chérubini prepares authentic Roman dishes and serves them with a fresh salad and spiced Roman wines.

Mireille took over what had been a simple snack shop in an historical site some 10 years ago and over the years has infused it with her passion and her careful research, giving birth to the Taverna Romana, one of the best kept secrets of the local populace for a delightful lunch. It's been many times that I've seen the mayor meet his colleagues there, or a group of doctors meet over lunch there... The seating is outside, shaded from the harsh sun but in full view of the vast stretch of Roman ruins as they rise up into the hills. The service is friendly and personal. The dishes include Cicerona, a chick pea paste with cumin and garlic (the cumin renders the chick peas easier to digest... those smart Romans!), pinéa, a spicy pine-nut sauce, smoked duck breast and Phoenix sauce with dates and onions, mushrooms marinated with honey and spices, the Apicius sauce of fennel root and fresh mint for grilled fish... and so much more.

We enjoy bringing our students to lunch at the Taberna Romana with Mireille. As fellow colleagues passionate for the history of this region and its food, Mireille and Erick have much to share. How many times before we finally met had friends, historians, archeologists, restaurant owners said to us that we just had to meet her? And how pleased we are to have done so. She's now nearly a fixture on our outings. We know that we will always eat well and that our clients will sample flavors of history and learn for themselves that just because a recipe is 2000 years' old, it has not grown stale. Au Contraire! How delightful to taste the sweet and tangy, the spicy and smooth, the herbs and vegetables, the fish and fruit, the fresh cheese, honey and mint.. flavors that bring together fresh local Mediterranean ingredients and age old methods of seasoning.

Samsa/ Black Olive Paste with a Roman Twist
The contemporary version of this spread, tapenade, is a classic hors d'oeuvre in Provence served on slices of bread. It is also a very versatile sauce that can be tossed with mushrooms and oil in a frying pan, spread on a roasted chicken, blended into a salad dressing, spread on a turkey sandwich....

We add the step of desalting your olives, which is unusual and time-consuming, but which will improve the flavor of your paste to no end--less bitter and less salty, thus pairable with a good wine.